Giving thanks for food
Posted by Thom on November 23, 2007
I really enjoy being with my family at Thanksgiving, but I wasn’t born into a cooking family. There were many years my parents (and alas, by that I mean my mom) didn’t cook. We went to a local restaurant in Erie, where we often got together with relatives. This became more common, after my grandmother and many of her close siblings passed away.
I often have only good things to say about the restaurants at which I eat. Whether it’s the atmosphere, the plating, the service, or the unbelievable tastes, I have started to recognize a good restaurant when I see it. (And I silently curse the folks who can’t, heh). The Thanksgiving dinner I ate at a restaurant in Erie, Pa. called the Colony wasn’t it.

Now, I count myself as fortunate to be affluent, well-fed, and overflowing with bounty…Thanks Pete for the flowery language inspiration), but since I’m trying to nourish (get it?) my inner food critic, I’ll indulgence in talking truth to mediocrity. There were two options, traditional Thanksgiving dinner (i.e. choice of turkey, ham, prime rib and side dishes), or the buffet. I’m a dabbler (and it close enough to noon that I trusted most of the food to be hot), so I got the buffet. The house salad was good enough, not bad, just plain salad with house dressing. Ok, well, it’s Erie, and middlebrow Erie at that. Next trip up I got the turkey, both white and dark meat; stuffing, mashed potatoes, sweet potatoes, cranberry sauce, macaroni and cheese, and some broccoli. There was also Seafood Newberg, which I got on the third trip.
Turkey: dark meat was dry. Why? There’s no reason this should be the case. Perhaps it was because it was cut off the bone and looked like a lot of shredded pork. White meat was bone dry–haven’t these people ever heard of brines, spice rubs, or flavor injections? As much as my heart seizes up even thinking about eating deep-fried turkey, you got to give it to them for making turkey moist again. My parents’ turkey was also dry, and they didn’t give my mom any gravy (she substituted a baked sweet potato for mashed potato). She was left without the little bit that other folks at the table got for their mash.
Ok, back to me…Stuffing was dry and unflavorful; like they took it right out of the Stove Top box. The sweet potato wasn’t bad. Mine was mashed, but not candied, so it wasn’t super sweet. (And it was blissfully free of marshmallows…I’ll take mine by the campfire or bathed in chocolate (later about that)). The mashed potatoes were not lumpy, but they lacked moisture. They had definitely been sitting around too long, and had some unappetizingly herbal flavors. No amount of gravy could help my dish.
Cranberry sauce looked like it came from the Ocean Spray can. Mac and cheese was good–good neutral cheese flavor, nice and creamy, spiked with pieces of hot dogs. I guess this dish was for the kids, because it wasn’t updated at all. The garlic broccoli was a little watery, but it was nice to eat a green vegetable. I had a couple of tastes of dessert–some grapes, strawberries, and other fruit. They had a chocolate fountain going. A nice touch of elegance, if a bit strained for what this meal actually was. I dipped a few marshmallows and strawberries, and enjoyed the chocolatey goodness. But dessert is a serious thing in my family, and we had pumpkin, apple, and coconut pies waiting at home for us and our guests.
Was this a memorable Thanksgiving dinner? Not in the least. I very much hope my family comes south to visit me next year and we have some culinary adventures in Virginia. The price wasn’t that bad ($12 for entrée, $15 for buffet) for this meal, but what is the limit you’d pay for food that is blah? Having experienced a gastronomic low today, I am looking to tomorrow’s meal to make up for it. I will be going to the restaurant of the next Iron Chef, Michael Symon, called Lola, and based in Cleveland.
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